Subaru Forester Control Arm Bushings: Fitment and Selection

Define the job the bushings must do

Start by confirming the bushing is actually the problem. A control arm bushing locates the arm at its mounting points on the subframe or body while letting it pivot as the suspension moves. When the rubber cracks, separates from its sleeve or tears, the arm can shift under braking and acceleration. Typical signs are a knock over sharp bumps, a pull or shimmy when braking, steering that wanders on grooved pavement, and feathered or inner-edge tire wear. The same symptoms can come from ball joints, sway bar links, tie rod ends or strut mounts, so inspect before buying. With the vehicle raised and held on stands rated for its weight, placed under solid support points, look for cracks, off-center sleeves or bulging rubber, and use a pry bar gently to compare joint play at each bushing with the opposite side.

Then define your constraints. A Forester used mainly for commuting and family trips usually benefits most from original-equipment-style rubber that keeps the cabin quiet. An owner who drives gravel roads regularly or wants sharper turn-in may accept more noise for firmer location. Consider your equipment as well: pressing bushings requires a hydraulic press or a dedicated bushing tool, while complete control arms with bushings preinstalled bolt on with ordinary hand tools. Budget, available time and whether the car must be back on the road the same day often decide which route makes sense.

Check compatibility before ordering

Forester suspension parts are generation-specific, and the design changed between generations from the early SF through the SG, SH, SJ, SK and newer models. Within a generation, part numbers can still differ by model year, engine or trim, so a listing that simply says Forester is not enough. The most reliable method is a part lookup using your VIN through a dealer parts counter or a catalog that decodes it, then confirming that any aftermarket part cross-references to that original part number.

Next, identify the exact position. On many Forester generations the front lower control arm has two bushings: a front pivot bushing and a larger rear bushing, often housed in a bracket, which is a commonly replaced item. They are not interchangeable, and some kits include only one. The rear suspension uses several arms and links, each with its own bushings, so a rear noise complaint needs to be traced to a specific arm before ordering. Check whether the listing is for the front or rear axle, left or right side if the part is handed, and whether it covers a bare bushing, a bushing with its bracket or a complete arm.

Interfaces matter too. Compare outer diameter, sleeve length, inner bolt diameter and the shape of any bracket or voids in the rubber, because some bushings are directional and must be pressed in with their voids or alignment marks clocked to a specific orientation. If you are buying a complete arm, confirm the ball joint stud style, the mounting bolt arrangement and whether new fasteners are included. Some suspension fasteners are specified as single-use, so check the service information for your model year rather than reusing hardware by default.

Features that affect the choice

The biggest decision is material. OEM-style rubber bushings isolate road noise and vibration well and need no maintenance, but they allow more deflection and eventually crack and tear. Polyurethane bushings are firmer and resist deflection, which can make steering response feel more direct, yet they transmit more noise and harshness and can squeak if not lubricated with the supplied grease. Some designs add features intended to reduce binding; how well that works varies, so treat comfort claims as manufacturer statements rather than proof.

Some aftermarket rear lower arm bushings for Subarus come in offset versions that relocate the arm and change caster. That alters steering feel and alignment geometry, so it is a deliberate tuning choice rather than a straight repair, and it may interact with other changes such as lift kits or modified ride height. If you want the car to drive as it did when new, choose a part that keeps the original geometry.

Labels like heavy-duty, performance or lifetime say little on their own. More useful evidence includes a clear OEM part number cross-reference, published material type and hardness when the maker provides it, whether the rubber is bonded to its inner sleeve, coverage of the exact position and model year, and warranty terms, including whether labor is covered. A complete arm with preinstalled bushings and a new ball joint can be better value than a cheap bushing alone if the original ball joint also shows wear.

Limitations and ownership costs

Bushings cannot fix every handling complaint. They will not cure worn struts, loose wheel bearings, damaged ball joints or bent arms, and new bushings installed alongside other worn parts may still leave a clunk. Inspect the whole corner, and replace in pairs across the axle when wear is similar so the car does not behave differently from side to side.

Installation has real requirements. Pressing out old bushings often takes a press, correctly sized receiving cups and patience with corroded sleeves and seized bolts, especially on vehicles from regions that salt their roads. Rubber bushings should have their pivot bolts finally tightened with the suspension loaded at normal ride height, not with the wheels hanging, otherwise the rubber is preloaded and can tear early. Use the fastener specification and tightening sequence from the factory service information for your exact model year; values differ between generations and positions, and guessed figures are not safe on suspension parts.

Plan for a wheel alignment after any control arm or bushing replacement, since moving the arm can change toe, camber and caster. Budget for the alignment, possible new fasteners, replacement bolts if old ones break, and shop press time if you lack the tools. Polyurethane bushings may need periodic re-greasing to stay quiet, and rubber units remain a wear item that will eventually need replacement again.

Build a practical shortlist

Work through the same questions for each candidate. Does it match your VIN-confirmed part number or a cross-reference for the exact generation, model year and position? Is it a bare bushing, a bushing in a bracket or a complete arm, and does that suit your tools and time? Is the material rubber for comfort or polyurethane for firmness, and does it keep factory geometry or add offset? Are hardware, grease and installation notes included? What warranty applies, and does it cover labor?

Put two or three qualifying parts side by side, keep the one that fits your driving and equipment, and schedule the alignment together with the installation. If the inspection also turned up worn ball joints or tie rod ends, a complete arm or a combined repair may cost less overall than doing the job twice. When in doubt about directional fitment, tightening values or ride-height tightening, rely on the factory service procedures or a qualified suspension technician.