Installing Forward Controls on a Street Bob: What to Check Before You Buy
The short answer
Forward controls can be fitted to a Harley-Davidson Street Bob, and many owners make the swap to stretch their legs out. The install is more than a bolt-on footpeg change, though. It typically means removing the stock mid-mounted controls, mounting new brackets further forward, fitting a longer shift linkage, and reworking the rear brake hydraulics, which usually includes a new or longer brake line and a full bleed of the rear brake. The single biggest factor in choosing the right kit is your Street Bob's model year, because the Dyna-based and Softail-based Street Bobs use different frames, mounting points and parts.
If you are comfortable with basic mechanical work and brake bleeding, it is a reasonable home project. If you have never worked on a hydraulic brake system, or your bike has ABS, a shop install is often the safer choice.
Why model year matters most
The Street Bob name has been used on two different platforms. Earlier Street Bobs were part of the Dyna family, with a twin-shock rear end. From the 2018 model year, the Street Bob moved to the Softail platform with a hidden rear shock and a different frame. Parts designed for one platform will not fit the other, even though both bikes share the same name and a similar stripped-down look.
Platform | General era | What it means for forward controls; Dyna Street Bob | Before the 2018 model year | Requires a kit made for Dyna frames; mounting points, brake routing and exhaust layout differ from later bikes; Softail Street Bob | 2018 model year onward | Requires a kit made for the Softail frame; check fitment against the exact year, as some details changed across the Softail run
Within each platform, details such as brake line routing, exhaust shape and the presence of ABS can still vary by year and market. Always match a kit to your exact model year rather than to the model name alone.
Equipment compatibility checks before buying
Beyond the platform, several pieces of existing equipment affect whether a given forward control kit will work on your bike without extra parts.
ABS or non-ABS: Bikes with anti-lock brakes route the rear brake line through an ABS module, so the replacement brake line and its fittings must match. Some kits are sold in separate ABS and non-ABS versions, or require a separately purchased line. Exhaust system: On the right side, the brake pedal and its bracket sit close to the exhaust. Aftermarket exhausts may change clearance, so confirm the kit is compatible with the exhaust you actually have. Other accessories: Highway pegs, engine guards, saddlebag supports or aftermarket footpegs may occupy space or mounting points the forward controls need. What the kit includes: Some kits come complete with pegs, pedals, linkage, brake line and hardware; others require you to buy the brake line, master cylinder parts or footpegs separately. Read the contents list carefully so you are not stuck mid-install. Region and market: Bikes sold outside the US can differ in brake and exhaust details, which can affect fitment of US-market kits.
Control position and rider reach
Control position refers to where your feet sit relative to the seat and handlebars. Mid controls place your feet roughly under your hips, giving an upright, ready posture. Forward controls move the pegs, brake pedal and shifter toward the front of the engine, so your legs extend forward in a more relaxed, laid-back stance.
Rider reach is the key fit question. Taller riders often find forward controls more comfortable on longer rides because their knees are less bent. Shorter riders may find they have to stretch to reach the brake pedal and shifter, which can make low-speed control and quick stops less comfortable. If possible, sit on a Street Bob or similar cruiser with forward controls before buying, and consider whether you also plan to change the seat or handlebars, since all three affect your riding posture together.
Also consider how you ride. Forward controls can feel natural on the highway but give you less leverage to stand on the pegs or shift your weight over rough surfaces, and they can reduce cornering clearance on some setups.
What the installation involves
Exact steps depend on the kit and the platform, so follow the instructions supplied with your kit and the service information for your model year. In general terms, the job looks like this:
Remove the stock mid controls, including the footpegs, shift lever, brake pedal and their mounting brackets. Disconnect the rear brake line and drain or contain the brake fluid, protecting painted surfaces from spills. Relocate or replace the rear brake master cylinder as the kit requires, and install the new, longer brake line along the specified routing. Mount the forward control brackets to the frame using the supplied mounting hardware, tightening fasteners to the specified values. Install the longer shift linkage and adjust it so the shifter sits at a comfortable height and moves through all gears cleanly. Fill and bleed the rear brake system using the correct fluid type for your bike, following the proper procedure for ABS or non-ABS systems. Adjust brake pedal height and confirm the brake light switch operates correctly.
Linkage alignment and brake checks after install
Linkage alignment means the shift rod runs in a straight, unobstructed line between the shift lever and the transmission's shift arm, without rubbing on the frame, exhaust or other parts. Misalignment can cause notchy shifts, missed gears or premature wear on the rod ends.
Shift through every gear with the bike on a stand and the engine off, then again at low speed in a safe area. Check that the rear brake pedal is firm, not spongy, and that the brake fully releases when you lift your foot. Verify the brake light activates when the rear pedal is pressed. Inspect the brake line routing for contact with hot exhaust parts, sharp edges or moving suspension components. Recheck all mounting hardware after the first short ride and again after some miles, since new fasteners can settle.
A spongy rear brake usually points to air left in the system and should be fixed before riding in traffic. On ABS-equipped bikes, some service procedures for bleeding can require specific steps or equipment; if you cannot get a firm pedal, have a qualified technician finish the job.
DIY or professional install?
Doing it yourself can save labor cost and gives you full control over adjustment. It suits owners who have a suitable work area, the necessary hand tools and a torque wrench, and experience bleeding hydraulic brakes. A dealer or independent motorcycle shop is the better route if your bike has ABS and you are unsure of the bleeding procedure, if the kit requires brake system parts you have not handled before, or if you simply want assurance the brakes are correct. Since the rear brake is safety-critical, it is worth weighing your own experience honestly.
Buying checklist
Confirm your Street Bob's exact model year and whether it is Dyna-based or Softail-based. Check whether your bike has ABS and choose the matching brake line and kit version. Confirm the kit clears your current exhaust and accessories. Read the kit contents to see whether pegs, brake line, master cylinder parts and hardware are included. Think about rider reach and test the riding position if you can. Budget for brake fluid, any separately sold parts and possible shop labor. Decide in advance whether you will install it yourself or book a shop.