Ford F350 Parking Brake Shoe Replacement Guide

Confirm the part and repair scope

On most Super Duty generations, the rear disc brakes include a small drum-in-hat parking brake. Two shoes are mounted on a backing plate inside the hat section of each rear rotor, and a cable and actuator lever apply them. Vehicle fitment depends on model year, single or dual rear wheels, axle and GVWR package. Match the replacement kit by VIN or by the part numbers in the service information, not by the F-350 name alone. A kit that includes new springs, hold-down hardware and adjusters costs a little more, but reusing tired springs is a common cause of poor shoe contact and noise.

Make sure new shoes will actually fix the symptom. A parking brake that won't hold can come from worn or oil-soaked shoes, but it can also come from a stretched, seized or misadjusted cable, a sticking actuator lever, a faulty self-adjusting mechanism at the pedal or handle, or a worn drum surface. Gear oil on the shoes points to a leaking axle seal, and that leak has to be repaired first or the new friction material will be ruined. If the service brakes feel soft, pull to one side or grind, or the brake warning light stays on, have the hydraulic system with its brake pads, rotors and calipers diagnosed. That is a separate fault, and it can make the truck unsafe to drive.

Prepare tools and safe access

You will need: • A floor jack and jack stands rated for the truck's weight; • Wheel chocks; • A breaker bar, sockets and a torque wrench; • Brake spring and hold-down spring tools, or suitable pliers; • Brake parts cleaner and high-temperature brake grease; • Wire or a strap to support the caliper; On dual-rear-wheel trucks, both wheels come off each side. Work on level, solid ground, chock the front wheels, and place the stands only at the lift points the service information specifies. The parking brake you are servicing will not hold the truck during the job, so rely on the chocks and stands. Don't blow brake dust out with compressed air. Wet it down with brake cleaner, and wear gloves and a dust mask.

Read the vehicle-specific removal procedure before you start. On some Super Duty rear axles, the rotor slides off once the caliper and bracket are removed. On others, the documented procedure involves pulling the axle shaft and hub. That means losing gear oil, replacing seals or gaskets, and correctly setting the hub nut torque or bearing adjustment on a full-floating axle. If your truck requires hub removal and you have never done that work, hand the job to a professional. Also check whether your parking brake system has a self-adjusting cable mechanism that has to be locked out or released before the cable has enough slack.

Remove without avoidable damage

Loosen the lug nuts, raise and support the truck, and remove the wheel or wheels. Release the parking brake and create cable slack as described for your system. Remove the caliper and support it with wire. Never let it hang from the brake hose, and don't press the brake pedal while the caliper is off. Next, remove the caliper bracket and then the rotor, or the hub if your procedure requires it. If the rotor won't come off, the shoes may be catching on a lip worn into the drum surface. In that case, back off the star-wheel adjuster through its access point instead of prying hard on the rotor. Prying can bend the backing plate or tear the shoes.

Before you take anything apart, photograph the shoes, springs and adjuster from several angles. Work one side at a time so the other side stays assembled as a reference. Remove the return springs first, then the hold-down springs and pins. Then lift the shoes and adjuster away from the actuator lever and cable. Note which way the adjuster faces, because left and right adjusters are often threaded differently. With the parts off, inspect: • The cable end and actuator lever, which should move freely; • The backing plate, for grooves worn by the shoes; • The drum surface inside the rotor hat, for scoring, heat cracks or wear beyond the maximum diameter listed in the service information or cast on the rotor

Install and restore the system

Clean the backing plate with brake cleaner. Apply a thin film of high-temperature brake grease to the raised shoe contact pads and the adjuster threads. Keep grease, oil and fingerprints off the friction material. Fit the new shoes and hardware to match your photos. The shoes must seat correctly against the actuator lever, the adjuster must face the right way on the correct side, and each spring must hook into the right hole. If the shoes in your kit differ in lining position or length, follow the kit's instruction sheet for which shoe goes where.

Adjust the shoes so they sit close to the drum without dragging. Service procedures typically do this in one of two ways. Some measure the drum and shoe diameters with a brake gauge. Others have you turn the star wheel through an access hole until the rotor drags, then back it off a specified amount. Use the method and values listed for your truck. Then reinstall the rotor, or the hub with new seals and correct adjustment if your procedure required its removal. Refit the caliper bracket and caliper, and torque all fasteners to specification, noting any bolts that call for threadlocker or replacement. Restore cable tension or re-engage the self-adjuster. Mount the wheels and tighten the lug nuts in the specified pattern and torque. Pump the brake pedal until it is firm so the caliper pistons reseat. Brake fluid bleeding isn't needed if no hydraulic line was opened, but check the reservoir level.

Many procedures call for burnishing new drum-in-hat shoes. This usually means applying the parking brake lightly while driving slowly for a short distance so the linings seat against the drum. Follow the exact steps for your truck, because overdoing it can overheat and glaze the new shoes.

Check the completed work

Before you drive, check that each rear rotor turns freely by hand with the parking brake released. Set the parking brake and confirm it engages firmly within normal pedal or lever travel. Release it again and confirm the brake warning lamp goes out. After burnishing, test holding power on a safe incline with your foot ready on the service brake, and confirm the truck stays put with the parking brake applied. Recheck lug nut torque after the distance specified for your wheels, which is especially important on dual rear wheels.

When to leave it to a shop

Some signs mean the job needs more diagnosis: • The truck still won't hold after adjustment and burnishing; • Pedal or lever travel stays excessive; • The warning light stays on; • A burning smell or unusual heat comes from one rear wheel after a short drive; • Grinding or scraping noises appear; • Gear oil appears at the backing plate; • The brake pedal feels soft or the truck pulls; If you notice any of these, stop using the truck and have the braking system inspected by a professional.