Systems

Chevy Equinox Cooling Fan Relay: Identification and Location

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When the radiator fan on a Chevy Equinox stops running, runs nonstop or works at only one speed, the cooling fan relay is one of the first parts worth checking. This guide covers where the relay usually sits, how to identify it on the fuse block label, how the fan circuit works, and how model year and powertrain change what you will find, including the Equinox EV.

Where the Equinox cooling fan relay is located

On gasoline Equinox models, the cooling fan relays are in the underhood fuse block. This is the black plastic box in the engine compartment, usually close to the battery. Unclip the lid and look at the diagram printed or molded on its underside. The fuse section of the owner's manual shows the same layout. Fan relays are typically marked with abbreviations such as FAN, FAN 1, FAN 2 or COOL FAN. Many Equinox engines use more than one relay, so two or three fan-related positions are normal. Identify the relay you need by its label position on the diagram, not by its color or shape. Identical relays often serve unrelated circuits in the same block.

On some versions you will not find a removable fan relay. The switching function may be built into the fuse block, or the vehicle may use an electronic fan control module instead of plug-in relays. If the lid diagram shows no fan relay position, the fan is probably controlled this way, and the diagnosis below shifts from relay swapping to module and signal checks.

How the fan relay circuit works

The engine control module decides when the fan should run. It bases that decision on inputs such as coolant temperature, A/C refrigerant pressure and vehicle speed. The module does not power the fan motor directly, because the motor draws far more current than its internal circuits can handle. Instead, it energizes the control side of the relay, a small coil that needs very little current. When the coil is energized, it pulls a set of heavy contacts closed. Those contacts carry the fan current from a fused battery feed to the motor. On a common four-pin automotive relay, terminals 85 and 86 are the coil, terminal 30 is the fused power input and terminal 87 is the output to the fan.

Dual-fan systems often get two speeds from a series/parallel arrangement. At low speed, one relay connects the two fans in series, so each motor receives roughly half of system voltage. At high speed, additional relays switch the fans into parallel, so each motor receives full voltage. This explains why a single failed relay can leave the fans working at one speed but not the other. The exact arrangement differs by vehicle, so confirm it with the wiring diagram for your model.

Model year and powertrain differences

The Equinox has gone through several generations, and fan control is not identical across them. The number of relays, their labels and their positions in the block can change with model year, engine and cooling package. Later designs may use variable-speed fan control, where a module drives the motor based on a signal from the engine computer rather than switching it fully on or off through relays. Because of these differences, rely on the lid diagram and the service wiring diagram for your exact vehicle rather than a generic picture or a layout from another year.

The Equinox EV needs separate consideration. It has a conventional 12-volt starter-type battery for accessories and control electronics, and a high-voltage traction battery for propulsion. Low-voltage fuses and relays sit on the 12-volt side. Thermal management for the traction battery and drive unit, however, is tied to high-voltage components. Owners should never probe, unplug or open anything with orange cables or high-voltage warning labels. Disconnecting the 12-volt battery does not de-energize the traction system.

Symptoms that point to the relay

Several symptoms point toward a failed relay. One is a fan that never runs, which shows up as rising temperature at idle or in traffic and weak A/C performance while stopped. Another is a fan that runs constantly, even with a cold engine or after shutdown. A relay whose contacts have welded together can keep feeding the motor, creating a parasitic draw that can leave the battery dead by morning. A fan that works on only one speed suggests a fault in one relay of a multi-relay system.

Not every symptom means the relay itself is bad. A relay that clicks or chatters may be reacting to low system voltage, corroded battery terminals or a weak ground. A fan fuse that blows repeatedly usually indicates a seized motor or a short in the wiring, not a relay fault. Fixing the relay alone will not cure either problem.

What the owner can check

Work with the engine off, cool and the vehicle shut down, and keep hands clear of the fan, which can start whenever its circuit is powered. Start with the simplest test. Find another relay in the same block with an identical part number printed on its case, ideally one serving a noncritical circuit such as the horn. Swap the two relays. If the fan problem follows the relay, or the fan starts working, the original relay is the likely fault. Also check the fan fuse with a test light or meter on both sides rather than relying only on a visual inspection.

With a multimeter, confirm the basics first. A healthy battery reads about 12.6 volts at rest, and normal charging output while running is typically in the low-to-mid 14-volt range. With the relay removed, the power input socket should usually show battery voltage. On many vehicles, turning the A/C to maximum or using a scan tool with fan command capability will request the fan. While the fan runs, a voltage drop of more than a few tenths of a volt across the relay contacts points to worn contacts or a poor socket connection. If you bypass the relay to test the motor, use only a fused jumper that matches the circuit's fuse rating, and never jump the coil terminals.

When replacing the relay, match the part number and pin configuration exactly and press it fully into its socket. Never install a fuse with a higher rating than specified. A larger fuse will not fix an overloaded circuit, and it can allow wiring to overheat.

Limitations and next step

Lid labels and general descriptions cannot confirm the circuit layout of your specific Equinox. If the relay tests good and the fan still misbehaves, the cause may be the fan motor, a connector, a ground, the coolant temperature sensor, a fan control module or the engine computer. Tracing those faults requires the wiring diagram for your vehicle and usually a scan tool that reads fan commands and temperature data. If the temperature gauge climbs toward the red, stop driving and let the engine cool before continuing, because overheating can quickly cause expensive engine damage. For any EV cooling concern involving high-voltage components, use a dealer or a technician trained in high-voltage systems.