1967–1968 Camaro Subframe Bushings: Choosing Body Mount Parts

Define the job the bushings must do

Start with how the car is actually used. A numbers-matching restoration headed for judging needs mounts that look and behave like the factory parts. A weekend cruiser or daily-driven classic benefits most from good isolation and long service life. A car built for autocross, road course or drag use may justify firmer mounts that keep the subframe from shifting under load, even though the cabin will get louder and harsher. Choosing the material before browsing listings keeps you from paying for stiffness you will only notice as vibration.

Then list the practical constraints. Is the body coming off, or will the subframe be lowered in place on a lift or jack stands? Is the subframe already out for paint, rust repair or an engine swap? Does the car need to stay drivable between work sessions? How much budget is there for related hardware that often turns out to be needed once old bolts come out? Answering these questions early tells you whether a basic cushion set is enough or whether a complete kit with new bolts, sleeves and retainers makes more sense.

Check compatibility with your car

Suppliers commonly list first-generation Camaro mount kits by model year range, and some separate 1967 parts from later first-gen applications, so match the listing to your exact year rather than assuming every 67 Camaro subframe bushings kit fits a 1968, or the reverse. The 1967–1969 Firebird shares the basic subframe architecture, but confirm that any cross-listed part is specified for your car. Your vehicle configuration matters too: an aftermarket or replacement subframe, a past front clip swap or a body-off restoration done with mixed parts can all change what fits. When the listing and your car disagree, trust what you measure.

Before ordering, do an inspection of what is installed now. Note each mount location, the condition and thickness of the existing cushions, the bolt length and head style, and any washers or retainers. Look closely for alignment shims between the body and subframe; if present, record their count and position at each mount so they can go back exactly where they came from. Check the captive nuts in the body and the surrounding sheet metal for rust or damage. Any service history showing earlier subframe or floor work is worth reviewing, because a previous repair may explain unusual hardware.

Finally, confirm what the kit contains. Some sets include only the upper and lower cushions, while others add center sleeves, retainer washers and bolts. Radiator core support cushions are sometimes bundled in and sometimes sold separately. Knowing the contents prevents a stalled job halfway through because one sleeve or bolt was not in the box.

Features that affect the choice

Rubber cushions are the closest to original design. They absorb vibration and road noise well, suit restoration and street use, and give the subframe a small amount of compliance that the rest of the car was built around. The trade-off is that rubber softens and degrades with age, heat and exposure to oil, and it allows more movement between the subframe and body than firmer alternatives.

Polyurethane mounts are firmer and generally resist oil and fluids better, so they tend to hold their shape longer and reduce subframe movement. In exchange they pass more noise and vibration into the cabin, and some designs need lubricant at assembly to avoid squeaks. Solid mounts, usually aluminum, remove nearly all isolation and are aimed mainly at competition cars; they transmit the most vibration and put more load on the body structure. If a car also has or will receive subframe connectors, consider the mount choice and the connectors together, since both change how the front structure shares load with the rest of the body.

Separate useful evidence from marketing labels. Terms such as performance, correct or heavy duty mean little on their own. More useful information includes the stated material, a published hardness rating for urethane parts, the year-specific application, a parts list or diagram, the grade and finish of included bolts, and a clear return policy if fitment is wrong. Be cautious with claims that new mounts will transform handling; on a car with worn steering and suspension parts, the mounts are only one factor.

Limitations and ownership costs

Installation requires supporting the subframe securely and either lowering it slightly or raising the body, often working one side or one mount at a time so the subframe stays located. Old bolts can be seized, and captive nuts in the body may spin or break, which can mean opening sheet metal to reach or replace them. Reinstall any shims in their recorded positions, tighten fasteners to the values in the factory service or assembly manual, and check door, fender and hood gaps afterward. Because the subframe carries the front suspension, a wheel alignment check after the work is sensible.

New bushings cannot fix rusted frame rails, damaged mounting points, rotted floors or torque boxes, worn control arm bushings or loose steering components, and they do not replace subframe connectors where body flex is the real problem. Ownership costs beyond the kit can include replacement bolts and captive nuts, rust repair, alignment and, with firmer materials, more cabin noise. There is no universal replacement interval in this guide; inspect the mounts during routine maintenance, after any heavy impact and whenever the front end is apart, and judge them by condition and your operating conditions rather than mileage alone.

Build a practical shortlist

Narrow the options with a short checklist. Confirm the listing names your exact model year and suits your body and subframe configuration. Choose the material that matches your use: rubber for originality and comfort, polyurethane for firmer street or occasional track use, solid mounts only for dedicated competition builds. Verify the kit contents against what you found during inspection, including sleeves, retainers, bolts and whether core support cushions are covered. Check for a stated material and hardness rating, an installation guide or diagram, and a usable return policy.

Then compare total cost rather than kit price alone: include fasteners, possible captive nut or sheet metal repair, alignment, and the time needed to support and lower the subframe safely. A kit that fits your car correctly, with complete hardware and a material suited to how you drive, is a better choice than the stiffest or cheapest option on the list.